Dining11 June 20265 min read
Salt, smoke and the winter menu
Our chef on cooking over pine, curing fish in sea salt and why winter is the best season to eat here.
Words by Rui Almada, chef
When the summer guests leave, the boats bring in the best fish of the year and the garden turns to roots and brassicas. It is the menu I'd cook for myself.
Cooking over pine
We burn fallen pine and cork oak from the estate. The smoke is sweet and resinous; it suits mackerel, it suits cabbage, and it suits almost nothing in between.
“Winter food here is very simple. It just takes a long time.”
